Korea Inc.

23/10/09 - 31/10/09 Seoul, South Korea

From the quiet costal town of Sokcho to the mega-city of Seoul, the contrast was felt immediately. Arriving in Seoul early evening on the inter-city bus we were immediately struck by the size and scale of the Korean capital. Having recently spent time on the other side of the DMZ in North Korea, the development of Seoul along a highly capitalist trajectory was unavoidable. Its quite amazing to compare the economic, political and social development of the two Koreas in the 56 years since the armistice.

Seoul feels in many ways like a very modern 'western' city and so it is quite easy to feel a sense of familiarity and ease. Everything is very clean, functional and modern. There are no 'traditional' areas of Seoul, there aren't any hutong-style areas, everyone lives in modern apartments and everything is seemingly new, which is a bit disappointing. This was confirmed by conversations with locals and by getting on a couple of buses and going to the end of the line at the edge of town and back. The metro is cheap, spotless and easy to use with the airconditioned carriages about double the size of a London tube. Travelling during rush-hour is almost pleasant.

Seoul is also very appointed is you enjoy some outdoors adventures. Surrounded by a mountain range we enjoyed two good day's hiking. The view over Seoul from the mountain was a little murky, as city views in Asia have tended to be due to the pollution levels.

The Koreans are extremely courteous and overtly friendly. They are genuinely interested in having a conversation with you, to practice their English, to find out where you are from and help you as much as possible, whether that means advising you on your metro journey or asissting with ordering/explaining what part of an animal you are about to eat. One such interjection would have been appreciated a few moments before we ordered the ox-intestines! Very chewy.

Despite the apparent fixation with offal, Korean cuisine is superb. The food is amazing whether it be dumpling and noodle soup in Dongdaemun market or a Korean BBQ in Hyewha.

The city has a vibrancy fuelled in part by the large student population and the overall desire to progress as a country. Entwined with this is the Koreans embrace of the western economic ideal whilst also nurturing their traditional social ideal of collective harmony. Given this tradition and desire the tragic nature of Korea's division is exacerbated. We will be extremely interested observers as the story of Korea unfolds.